![]() If it leaks, it should be noticeable from the back edge. I secured the front edge and sides with an adhesive caulk. Test flushes were successful, no sign of seeping. I bolted the toilet down, compressing the wax, then shimmed it level using bits of plastic shims. I also packed some wax in the void above the 4"pipe and below the bottom of the flange. I used multiple plain wax rings and fashioned a double-wide expanded ring of wax around and along the top of the flange, surrounding the bolts. In the end, I decided to replicate what had already been done. Thus, stacking the wax rings would not have worked because part of the base "ledge" was too narrow along a portion of the circumference! The dutchman looks like the best bullet-proof permanent solution, but I don't have that much confidence in my DIY ability. What I discovered (and you can't really see in my pictures) is that the flange wasn't centered well over the 4" pipe. ![]() I have done this numerous times over the last 30 years and never had any issues, even years down the road.just be sure to BLEND the gaskets together to make that a good strong stack of gaskets, OK? ![]() That should be all you need to do in this case. You want the wax gaskets on the inside of the flange to remain wide so you can finally set the wax ring with horn on the toilet, set the toilet bolts into place and then install the toilet bowl.īe sure to mold the gasket tight to the inner flange without thinning them out, but tight enough that you can see the wax adhering to the inner nfim a good strong "stack" has been built and then install the toilet bowl. Here, the idea is to build/mold a STACK of wax rings in such a way that you bring the wax gaskets flush to the top of the closet flange. Repeat this for the next couple gaskets joining them down on top of the other(s) wax rings. Mold the first one tight to the walls of the pipe, but keep the width of the gasket the same. You may need to tear away an inch or so of the wax gasket and reform the ring for the best fit. Turn the supply valve back on and flush the toilet several times to make sure there are no leaks.Here's a fix that should do the job for you.it isn't perfect by any means but short of replacing that gasket it should work just fine! You will need to purchase 3-4 wax gaskets WITHOUT horns or neoprene inside.just plain wax rings and then 1 wax ring with a horn, OK?Īfter purchasing the wax gaskets you'll want to take them, and one at a time, set a wax gasket into the flange in such a way that you make a ring on the inside of the flange that sits on top of the pipe. Put the washers, nuts, and bolts back and reconnect the water supply. Make sure the seal is perfectly centered on the flange before setting the toilet back in place. Scrape away the old wax seal and replace it with a new one. ![]() Hold the toilet under the bowl and gently rock it back and forth to break the old wax seal, then lift the toilet up and set it aside. Use a wrench to remove the nuts, bolts, and washers under the caps. ![]() Then, pry the caps off the washers at the base of the toilet with the end of a flathead screwdriver. Turn the compression nut on the water supply line counterclockwise to disconnect the line. Use a cup to remove any remaining water from the bowl and tank and soak up the last bit of moisture with a towel. Remove the lid of the toilet tank, then flush the toilet and hold down the handle until as much water drains out as possible. To fix a leaky toilet seal, turn off the water supply to your toilet by turning the valve clockwise. ![]()
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